Monday, January 23, 2012

Florida 2012 - Charleston SC (Day 3)





On our last day in Charleston, we visited The
Citadel, CSS Hunley, and Magnolia Plantation.  Then, on to Savannah, GA 

The Citadel - referred to as the West Point of the South is near downtown Charleston

The Quadrangle forms the center of campus with the parade field being the center piece

These two cadets agreed to allow a photograph
The Corps of Cadets was having inspection - on a Saturday!

These staff quarters are near campus

Just inside the entrance gate is this larger than life replica of a Citadel class ring. Gives a whole new meaning to the term "ring knocker!"

While all services are represented by displayed military items, this Navy submarine periscope was unique!
We moved on to the old Charleston Navy Base where the CSS Hunley is on display. Hunley was the first submarine to attack and sink an enemy ship.

The crew sat on these benches and propelled the vessel by cranking the shaft which turned the propeller. The Captain sat forward and controlled ballast, dive planes, and the rudder

They did not allow photography of Hunley but this laser map is a good representation

This replica is of an earlier submarine in the development chain. Development of Hunley was done in Mobile, Alabama

This gives an idea of how cramped the sub was!

Our final stop before leaving Charleston was the nearby Magnolia Plantation
The tree-lined drive is like something from Gone With the Wind. But the fact is these plantations almost never received visitors by road. The "front" of the plantation faced the Ashley River where almost all visitors arrived
The main crop at most plantations in this area was rice! The swampy areas were ideal for rice growing. Snakes, malaria, and alligators were all hazards with which the slaves had to contend.

The main house was burned by Union Troops (as were most - presumably to prevent a return of oppression of the slaves). This house is a former fishing camp lodge disassembled and floated downriver. Over the years it has had rooms added on 
The painting over the fireplace is "headhunter art." An artist would paint headless bodies in the studio then add the heads on the spot to match the children of the plantation owners. In this painting, the head is too big for the body, a common flaw in this style

A sweeping staircase - what else!

This is one of two rooms added on the first floor. A dining room about the same size adjoins.
The real showpiece of Magnolia is the gardens, complete with ponds, bridges, and walks


This field, very near the Ashley River was planted with rice then gradually flooded to support the rice and protect it from insects, etc. When the rice was harvested, huge swarms of Bob-O-Links would swoop in and eat as much as one third of the crop! This breed was known throughout the region as "rice birds!"

This critter sunning himself on the bank is a reminder of the dangers to the slaves who worked the rice paddies

The flora and fauna was remarkable, especially considering this was January!

Finally, we stopped by the nearby petting zoo
Next - Savannah for an overnight, mass, and brunch with Matt & Jenn!

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Florida 2012 - Charleston SC (Day 2)

Our second day in Charleston was spent wandering in the historic district.

We took the free trolley to Broad Street and strolled to Waterfront Park and the famous Pineapple Fountain - unfortunately the water was turned off.

We then strolled the Battery where there are some truly beautiful houses.


A carved owl was supposed to keep smaller "pest" birds away

Houses were taxed on frontage, so most of the homes are narrow and deep

On Rainbow Row, all the houses are different colors. Unfortunately, the best view was totally blocked by trucks and construction equipment

A popular way to see the city is in a horse drawn carriages

The battery is so named because of the battery where artillery guarded the city

This monument is dedicated to those who fought for the Confederacy in Charleston  
We wanted to visit the Edmonston-Alston House,  but it was closed for maintenance. Instead we walked to the Calhoun Mansion, once occupied by John C. Calhoun.

The house is beautiful inside and out but was not always so. During World War II, the Navy commandeered the house for officer housing. They made many alterations and when the war ended, the house was in very  rough condition. It remained so until much later when it was bought and rehabilitated. 

The gardens are lovely

We wait on the porch for the tour inside

The inside is lovely but is crowded with many, many items



We then walked to the Cathedral

The brickwork on the Cathedral is unusual
We happened on a mass in progress!

The Cathedra or bishop's chair from which the Cathedral gets it's name

The stations of the cross are lovely paintings framed in decorative frames
After mass, we walked down Broad Street to Gaulart & Maliclet French Cafe

Inside G&M, the patrons sit shoulder to shoulder along a slate gray counter.

The food is very good! Theresa had carrot & ginger soup & baguette slices with Brie cheese

Bob had gazpacho accompanied by smoked salmon & goat cheese on thin rye toast
We wanted a sweetgrass basket to be a companion to one we bought years ago. Every vendor we encountered wanted $200 or more! So we went to the Market, a structure several blocks long. The main building alone has a second floor which houses a Museum to the Confederacy.

The lower level goes on for blocks! About half way through, we found a man who sold us a sweetgrass basket at a price we could afford

Near the end of the market is the US Custom House! Charleston is the port for many imports.

Across the street from the Charleston Visitor's Center is the Charleston Museum where a fll scale model of CSS Hunley. When we visited the restoration site for the raised Hunley, we discovered they had some details wrong on this model.

The day ended with a drive out to Sullivan's Island to visit Ft Moultrie followed by a nice meal at Locklear's Low Country Grill where we had some wonderful she crab soup and shrimp & grits!